Tú Lệ - Mu Cang Chai
Kilometers Traveled :46 km
Part 1 Bed
In Tu Le, we experienced Vietnamese hospitality at its finest. It did not happen in a hotel, but in a local family’s abode. Apparently, Pen and Levi had stopped by this quaint home with the intention of asking for directions to the nearest hostel. Upon hearing the need for a place to stay for the night, the residents immediately offered a room for us. Without waiting for a response, the ladies of the house started to prepare our sleeping accommodations. They were so enthused - Pen and Levi didn’t have the heart to decline. We later found out that this home was in the process of being converted into a homestay for travelers, and they were happy to have us as their guinea pig guests :)
The house had a unique format. Imagine a garage that can fit a car and a half. Then imagine a walled wooden structure built on top of it. The “garage” contained the living room, the dining room and the kitchen. Stairs running up the front lead to a long and narrow balcony which is anterior to the walled structure on the second level.
The walled structure is a wide room with no furniture, save for a bed on the corner piled with an assortment of clothes and other household things. Two huge thin mats were laid out side by side beside this bed, which was neatly made with pillows and the furriest of blankets.
That night, as we were drifting off to sleep, one our hostesses, in a most motherly fashion, laid extra layers of furry blankets on top of us. We muttered groggy thank you's, and went to sleep, bodies warmed and hearts touched.
That night, as we were drifting off to sleep, one our hostesses, in a most motherly fashion, laid extra layers of furry blankets on top of us. We muttered groggy thank you's, and went to sleep, bodies warmed and hearts touched.
Part 2 Breakfast
We had a rise-and-shine meal of hot coffee with bread and omelette. Over breakfast, we bantered happily – mostly commenting on how good-looking the women of the house were. Yes, folks, we were checking them out. There were three of them, and they all looked like they could be models for a shampoo commercial with their slim figures, straight shiny hair and clear skin.
After settling our dues, we asked to have some photos taken with them. They willingly obliged, shyly at first, but later on unabashedly linked arms with us. It was very cute. Waving goodbye, we pedaled off.
By this time we had traveled approximately 243 kilometers from Hanoi. We were at the half-way mark to our ultimate destination, Sa Pa. Our next stop, Mu Chang Cai was about 46 kilometers away. We would be going up the Kau Pha Pass (elevation ~1570m) - a heartbreaker for me, but I was not so worried. After surviving yesterday’s ride, I felt my mental stamina go up a notch. This was a very good thing, considering the terrain that lay ahead of us. Boy, were we in for a surprise!
Riding out of Tu Le was a mostly foggy and uphill climb, as expected.
What was not expected was what met us at kilometer 10.
It was as if we had entered another dimension. First we were riding on concrete, and then suddenly we were engulfed by heavy almost zero visibility fog, and then the concrete broke into a stretch of wet and rocky MUD.
At first, I thought, no worries, I’m sure this will only be a few meters – a short stretch of unconstructed highway. It wouldn’t be long before our wheels would roll onto cement again.
What was not expected was what met us at kilometer 10.
It was as if we had entered another dimension. First we were riding on concrete, and then suddenly we were engulfed by heavy almost zero visibility fog, and then the concrete broke into a stretch of wet and rocky MUD.
At first, I thought, no worries, I’m sure this will only be a few meters – a short stretch of unconstructed highway. It wouldn’t be long before our wheels would roll onto cement again.
Talk about being oh so very wrong.
The muddy terrain stretched for a total of 10 kilometers. And this was all uphill. I was going at a painfully slow pace – granny gear mode. There was nothing to see but fog and mud and then some.
It was completely and utterly unpleasant. I silently prayed that our bicycles would not break down in the middle of all this gooey earth - that would just be miserable. Thankfully, our bikes remained intact throughout the muddy ordeal.
It was completely and utterly unpleasant. I silently prayed that our bicycles would not break down in the middle of all this gooey earth - that would just be miserable. Thankfully, our bikes remained intact throughout the muddy ordeal.
This was more meltdown-worthy than the previous day’s ride. I was very much aware of how cold it was and how tired my legs were. Very aware that my saddle was sore and my back was aching. Very aware that we were nowhere near the end of this leg.
And yet. Not once did I wish that I was somewhere else. Is it weird that I would rather have mud than the mundane?
It was at around this point that I realized that tour cycling requires one to be comfortable in discomfort. The uncomfortable, the unpleasant and the ugly can give way to unexpected beautiful things. In this case, it was a sliver of sunshine just around the bend somewhere around the 20 kilometer mark. When brown mud gave way to green grass and gravel and the mist cleared, the tears flowed.
Writing about it now, I still remember how it felt to emerge from that mini-hell of a climb. Just I was bracing myself for more pain, the clouds parted and the sun’s beams pierced through them -kissing my face and warming my cheeks. If I were asked to pick moments in my lifetime when I felt happy to my very core, that moment would be one of them.
This was the saddle. The mud ended here, and from hereon it was concrete and sunshine through and through. And a lot of downhills!
This would have to be on my list of favorites in terms of scenery : tall trees against massive rock formations with valleys of terraced rice plantations.
We saw our first glimpses of the H’mong tribe. They met us with curious stares, but they were very friendly and willingly posed for photographs.
We saw our first glimpses of the H’mong tribe. They met us with curious stares, but they were very friendly and willingly posed for photographs.
From the saddle, we still had to cover 26 kilometers to Mu Cang Cai, which still had some climbs here and there. At long last, we rode into town, checked into a pale pink hostel with a view, bikes muddied but spirits high.
It was a Friday, and it sure felt like it. There was a tingly anticipation of rest and recuperation, a feeling of freedom and lightness and victory.
Next : Day 7 Mu Cang Chai
Next : Day 7 Mu Cang Chai
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